I’ve Loved the Mountains Since I Was a Kid

My parents have taken me west since I was eight. Estes Park, Colorado, seemed to be their favorite spot, probably because Dad knew the area really well from the time he spent stationed in the army in Colorado Springs. The first time they took me to the mountains was a reward for coming home from the hospital after an abscessed appendix that eventually ruptured. Mom and dad promised me if I got better, they would take me to the mountains. We had never been on a family vacation before that. Money was really tight for our family, but I really wanted to go to this place that sounded so magical. So I fought to get better. And my wish and their promise came to fruition, and they drove me to the mountains.

I’ll never forget the first time I saw the Mountains

I met the adventurous girl in me on that trip to the Rockies in 1998, and I knew I would always go back. When it was time to leave, I waved out of the back window of my parent’s Durango until I couldn’t see them anymore. “Goodbye mountains,” I said. I still remember that day, 22 years later. It was like I was leaving a good friend behind.

Discovering Grand Teton National Park

When the pandemic hit and life came to a standstill for all of us, I asked my cousin to come away with me to the mountains. We wanted to discover a new destination. And so, we set off to northern Wyoming on our 18-hour car ride with a very long playlist and a lot to talk about.

Need to Know

Nearest Town; Jackson, Wyoming

Jackson, also dubbed Jackson Hole is the nearest town to the Tetons and is only a ten-minute drive. The famous ski town sets the backdrop to some of the most challenging ski slopes in the U.S, maybe in the world. It becomes very busy in the winter months, but summer in Jackson Hole feels just as luxurious. With celebrities like Harrison Ford and the Kardashians occasionally popping in, it’s become a ski town for the rich, but tourists from all over can feel posh for the day in this town. Pop into some of the restaurants for refreshments before hitting the trails for the day, or do as I did and pop into the photography store, Wyoming Camera Outfitters for some more gear before trying to spot wildlife.

What Makes Grand Teton National Park Special

The Teton mountain range sits in a valley, where you’ll find Jackson Hole. The valley is flat and perfect for riding bicycles, hiking, water sports, camping, and spotting wildlife. Different than the other parks, driving through this park allows you to see the mountains very near you but from a completely different perspective at a ground level vs driving in the mountains at a higher altitude. And if you choose to drive up the mountain pass, you will get a view of the valley below.

Proximity to Yellowstone

The Tetons are about 2 hours and 45 minutes south of Yellowstone National Park. It’s easy to fit both parks in a long week or ten-day trip, like my cousin and I did.

Entrance Fee

The fee to enter is $35 per vehicle or $70 for an annual pass.

What to Pack

Comfortable hiking shoes are a must in the Tetons if you want to really explore. There are many hiking trails around. I purchased a Merrell midrise hiking boot from REI and it had great ankle support. If you’re a photographer, try to bring a 200mm or 300mm lens. You won’t regret it.

What to Wear

Most people wear athletic clothes in Jackson. I did bring some Gal Meets Glam dresses for dinners in town. Jackson is a combination of modern west meets posh resort town. But people wear all sorts of clothing. It’s definitely not an old west town, and the vibe is much more that of a ski town, even in the summer. I also packed compression socks, a baseball cap, a comfortable backpack, and a thick sweatshirt for our morning hike. It is cold in the mountains in the morning.

Bear Spray

I was tempted not to spend the $50 on the bear spray, but I was so so glad I did. We encountered a black bear on the trail, and although he was harmless and we never came close to using it – it was a little more reassurance to have it in my backpack. You can find the bear spray at gas stations, and convenience stores. It is sold almost everywhere.

Teton Village is a Great Place to Stay Near the Park Entrance

This is where you are likely to run into a celebrity at the famous and very luxurious, Caldera House hotel. There are many budget-friendly places to stay in Teton Village, too. It is very near to a stable for horseback riding. I recommend checking out the brand new hotel where we stayed, called the Continuum.

The Tetons in Winter

If you are looking for a ski trip, Jackson, Wyoming is one of the most popular destinations in the U.S. But if you’re an amateur skier, like me, I would recommend practicing at slopes that aren’t as steep. These are known as some of the steepest slopes in the U.S.

The Best National Park to Spot Wildlife

{Disclaimer} I am in no way an expert at wildlife spotting. But I will say from my own experience, Grand Teton National Park is the only park where I’ve spotted; brown bear cubs (more than one in a day), a full-grown brown bear on a hiking trail on the top of a mountain, and so many moose I lost track of counting them.

The Day I Spotted a Bear On My Hike

Suzie and I set off before sunrise with our hiking gear. I had my camera out, ready for whatever would come out to reveal itself to us. I had a feeling, maybe an intuition, that we would see a bear, or at least, that was my hope! As a photographer, nothing is better than getting photos of wild animals in their habitat.

About five miles into the park, we drove slowly around up to a one-way corner. A truck came passing by. The man stopped next to us and rolled his window down. “There are bear cubs right behind me on the road,” he said. Wait, what!?

We rolled the car around the corner, came to a straightaway, and came to a stop. The brush to the left of our car was rustling. I stared with the excitement of a little kid. There, off in the distance, was a baby bear eating his breakfast. The pictures and videos rolled. I couldn’t stop. As cars stacked up behind us, we were forced to move on.

A few miles ahead was a clearing with a drop off that overlooked a lake. A group of people were gathered with their telescopes looking down at the lake. Suzie said, “pull over they see something!” And she jumped out and ran over to the edge to look down. She saw a moose! Wow, I was so giddy – two animals in less than twenty minutes! We were onto something.

Jenny Lake Hike

We ventured on, we weren’t even at the trailhead to start our day yet. We arrived, parked the car, and headed on our hike up the mountains around Jenny Lake. It was about 7:30 in the morning.

Right away we came upon a group of deer eating. We went on a mile or so to witness some of the most spectacular views I’ve ever seen. This was when I realized I want to tell everyone how amazing the Tetons are.

A few miles into our hike, we were getting pretty high up in altitude. We came upon another group of people to our left looking off over the edge of the mountain down to the lake below. There were two more moose swimming and eating below. All this time, I’ve got my camera glued to me.

On Our Way to Inspiration Point

Our hike got a little harder as we neared the top, where the trail runs into another trail where the ferry drops people who want to skip the hike at. We came upon a stream with a beautiful bridge. A man approached us and pointed down at a large wet area on the bridge. “That’s a bear print,” he said. “It just passed up here on its way up the mountain. It’s back there.” Suzie and I looked at each other. I knew what she was thinking without saying a word. And I reach for my bear spray, checking to make sure it’s still in my backpack.

Up the mountain, toward the bear we headed, determined to get that photo and determined to cross this from my bucket list.  At this point, we were climbing vertically up the side of the mountain and just as we neared Inspiration Point, people were bottlenecked on the trail with their phones out. We were so close to the bear, but we still couldn’t see it yet.

Bear Encounter in the Wild

We continued to climb up, and then, over the side of the rock, ever so slowly and obliviously it came. The little bear was so delighted by his breakfast that he didn’t have a clue the audience he was attracting.

And I got it, the moment I had driven 18 hours for.

The bear was not frightening, but beautiful. His coat was thick and shiny. He was just a little bear, and I’m thankful too because I honestly don’t know that I would know how to use my bear spray can if I had to. We stood there for at least 20 minutes while we watched him slowly graze and then mozy on up the mountain back to his den.

It was without a doubt the most amazing thing to ever happen to me in the mountains.

My family spent years hoping to catch a glimpse of a bear or a moose. In all that time, we only saw one moose and one bear. But at the Tetons, I spotted over nine animals in ONE hike around Jenny Lake!

The Secret to Wildlife Spotting I Never Knew:

I wish we would have known all those years ago to be on the trails at sunrise. The animals come down from the mountains in the early morning to eat and drink. They usually cross right over the trails and roads on their hunt for food. Around 6-7 a.m. is the BEST time to spot wildlife. Animals tend to go back up the mountain at around 9 a.m. when the sun begins to warm up the valley. They get warm and sleepy and head back to bed.

Tips to Spot Wildlife

I regret two things about my trip planning. I so wish I would have invested in a 200mm lens for that bear shot. My 20-70mm was perfect for landscape shots but wasn’t quite enough zoom for animal shots. Secondly, I regret not bringing a scope to see far off in the distance. There were times we had an open valley spanning miles ahead of us but we couldn’t “scope it out”. One of those times, there was a valley with wolves running in it. We had pulled over on the side of the road as many people gathered around, but there was no way to see what they were all looking at. They all had scopes. They were seasoned wildlife spotters.

Things to Do in Grand Teton National Park

There are so many things to see and do in the Tetons. Suzie and I didn’t have time to do everything on our list. We did the highlights and went on to Yellowstone. I can’t wait to go back soon and hike, kayak, and horseback ride again. Below, I outline what we did in about four days.

Mormon Row Barns; a Landscape Photographer’s Dream

Photographers worldwide can spot a Mormon Row barn in a photo when they see it. It is one of the most famous photographed areas in the park, and one of the most famous barns in the U.S.

Golden Hour at Mormon Row is Magic.

The sun sets softly over the mountains behind the barns. As a photographer, shooting into the sun is always the best option. As photographers strive to find, it’s the perfect combination of lighting on a beautiful landscape that allows the photographer to create amazing photos. There are a handful of beautiful old 19th-century barns in perfect condition in this area, waiting to watch a sunset with you.

What to Do in Grand Teton National Park in the Summer

In no particular order:

• Jenny Lake sunrise hike for wildlife spotting
• Sunrise drive through the park for wildlife spotting (We saw a bear cub right as we entered the park in the shrubs)
• Schwabacher Landing (picturesque area for a hike and a really great place to spot moose)
• Teton Village (We stayed at the Continuum and loved it)
• Horseback riding through the valley near Teton Village
• Meteor Shower (during the right time of the year)
• Jackson Hole, WY for shopping and dining
• Photograph the Mormon Row Barns
• Spot Bison near Mormon Row
• Take a ferry ride across Jenny Lake
• Kayak (we ran out of time for this but I so wish we had gone)
• Take a ski lift in Teton Village to the top of the restaurant for amazing views
• Relax in a posh, swanky hotel in Teton Village (This is where the Kardashians stay when they visit)
• Hike, hike, hike (be sure to wear really good hiking shoes)